Monthly Archives: November 2011

Nov18

Hollywood: Matty B at Library Bar at the Roosevelt

Posted on by
Standard

Matt Biancaniello at the Library Bar

 

Following Speed Rack LA, I wanted something to counter-act all the sweet drinks and punches I had. I headed straight to Library Bar where one of LA’s best bartenders, Matt Biancaniello was working. Matty B had his usual assortment of fresh produce on the bar. He shops at as many as 5 different farmers’ markets a week to get everything he needs. And he’s a huge fan of passionfruit. There was an enormous bowl of ‘em at the bar causing my bar buddy to exclaim she wanted something passionfruit.

gin, Campari, passionfruit

 

Matt quizzed her to see what else she liked. He came up with a gin, Campari and passionfruit cocktail which she loved. I liked it but I wanted something with Cynar and was looking for a more bitter drink.

Cynar, coffee, white truffles

 

Perhaps I need coffee? We went with a Cynar and coffee cocktail with shaved white truffles on top. I felt instantly better and more alive.

For the level of detail, fresh ingredients and true hospitality, Matt’s drinks are worth every pretty penny.

 

Fun Reads:

My interview with Matt

Table 20 announces Matt Biancaniello as LA’s Best Bartender (2010)

 

Library Bar at the Roosevelt

7000 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90028 – 323-466-7000

 

Nov16

Angus Winchester’s Bartender Challenge

Posted on by
Standard

Angus Winchester speaking with Nathan Gerdes

 

At Portland Cocktail Week, bar star Angus Winchester debuted his his challenge to all bartenders. Over the course of two days, he challenged bartenders to make 4 cocktails which tested five key skills; speed, pouring accuracy, memory & numeracy, bartending technique and drinks presentation. Each is worth 100 points for a total of 500 points.

Nathan Gerdes of H50 Bistro and Thatch Tiki Bar, PDX

I arrived one morning to check out the challenge. Nathan Gerdes of H50 Bistro and Thatch Tiki Bar from Portland was up. Here are a couple of videos.

Nathan Gerdes answering Angus Winchester’s Challenge

and Nathan making more drinks

Angus gave the bartenders the four recipes prior to challenge. He ran through them quickly and how they should be presented along with their prices before the bartenders began. Angus then uses a program called PourTrainer by Barmetrix to weigh the bottles before and after the challenge to judge pouring accuracy. He watches for your technique and then judges the presentation.  Angus is running this challenge in many cities and although you can share your score, you’re not required to. If you like, the information can be de-identified. The highest overall score wins the challenge but kudos will be given to the Fastest Bartender and the Most Accurate Bartender.

Bartenders are asked to make four cocktails; Tanqueray & Tonic, Negroni, Southside and Green Basil Smash. Prices are given and expected to added up for Angus. In Nathan’s case, Angus mentioned he probably could have cut down on time by pouring the three drinks using London dry at the same time, picked up the rocks glasses at the same time, same with the highball glasses and he could have mentioned the pricing when he repeated the order back to the client. This cuts down on wait time for the guest to pay at the end of the round, giving you time to jump to the next guest.

Under technique, Angus is looking for things like ices over well, correct shaking time, professional pouring, systematic working, etc. And for presentation, he’s looking for correct ice amount, fresh garnish, straws used correctly, eye contact, spills among other things.

drinks at the Angus Winchester's challenge- Nathan's are the top row

I thought it was very interesting and learned quite a bit just in the few short minutes I was there. Nathan did very well on presentation.  His are the top row of cocktails.

Bartenders, look for Angus Winchester coming to a city near you.

Links!

Portland Cocktail Week

Alconomics

Tanqueray

Nov16

Portland Cocktail Week: Beer Cocktails with Jacob Grier & Ryan Conklin

Posted on by
Standard

Jacob Grier and Ryan Conklin

Beer cocktails have become somewhat trendy in the last couple of years. I have to admit, I am a spirits snob. I tend to favor cocktails and although I drink beer and wine, they are not my favorites. However, I am a bit OCD and once I am interested in something, I will learn as much as I could about it. So I know what beer I like. I also know what sort of wine I like. This only comes from tastings. And drinking. Yes, a lot of drinking.

I am fascinated by all things cocktail and wanted to attend the beer cocktails seminar.  Beer Cocktails with Jacob Grier and Ryan Conklin was definitely an eye-opener at Portland Cocktail Week. I like Jacob whom I met by coincidence a few months back at the Thrillist/ Bols Genever punch crawl in Downtown LA. Besides being the lead bartender at Metrovino in Portland, Jacob is an ambassador for Lucas Bols (which owns Bols Genever) and is also into coffee and beer.

Ryan is a certified cicerone (beer expert or sommelier) from Euclid Hall in Denver, Colorado. These two were perfect to lead the class. I say eye-opener because I really did learn beer cocktails are more than shandys (beer and lemonade), micheladas (like a bloody mary but with beer), snakebites (beer and cider) or the most classic- a beer and a shot (Boilermaker).

 

Harvey Weisbanger

Jacob discussed the original flip cocktails which were warm ale drinks. You would beat up eggs with sugar and then slowly flip it into hot beer and rum, turning it slowly from one container to another. If not careful, this could lead to scrambled eggs. It works much better with cold drinks.

 

Euclidian 75

First we tried the Harvey Weisbanger, a take on a Harvey Wallbanger. Made with Galliano, OJ and a wheat beer, this was a light way to start our class. It was followed by Ryan’s Euclidian 75 which had gin, lemon and beer. It was delicious and my favorite.

 

capri-beer-ihina

We also tried a Capri-beer-ihina which you guessed it, is a caprihina with beer. This had a Novo Fogo float.

Jacob and Ryan talked about experimenting with beer cocktails by either enhancing their natural flavor or using it in place of things like sugar. For instance, for a beer bramble, you’d take out the sugar. Just look for similar flavor profiles. Ryan’s Breakfast at Midnight beer cocktail he serves at Euclid Hall uses stout, bourbon, coffee and maple syrup. The flavors of stout are complimentary to bourbon (probably why when I do drink beer, I like darker beers like stouts and porters as a bourbon drinker).

 

Averna stout flip

I found it interesting that Jacob and Ryan are doing much more with beer cocktails than just using it to replace spirits. They’re using it in conjunction with spirits. Jacob’s Averna beer flip is an example of this.

Ryan mentioned experimenting with beer syrups. If there is leftover beer, he might cook it down for a syrup to be used in a cocktail or give it to the kitchen. They could use it in pastries and other dishes.

After the class, we were all very enthusiastic about beer cocktails. I have been talking about it with my friends for weeks. Here are some ideas to experiment with:


A Toronto spirits writer has been experimenting with an absinthe rinse, Duvel and a shot of gin. Perhaps add Chartreuse?

Could do a Scotch rinse and IPA.

Port + Sherry + Beer

Bourbon + Stout + Chartreuse

Manhattan topped with barley wine

Margarita with Mexican beer- this one reminded me of how I used to make “beer-garitas” which was essentially a pool party drink (take a pitcher, add 1 can of frozen lemonade mix, tequila and top with Mexican beer)

Mint Julep + beer

 

Fun Facts:

Try not shake beer too much in cocktails, you’ll get too much fizz/ foam.

I learned that in Colorado, it’s actually illegal to sell beer lower than 3.5%ABV.

 

Links!

Portland Cocktail Week

Jacob Grier

Ryan Conklin

Metrovino

Euclid Hall

Averna Stout Flip recipe

Nov15

The Indie Tequila Roadshow

Posted on by
Standard

The Indie Tequila Road Show

With only 40 available seats, one of the hottest seminars at Portland Cocktail Week was the Bon Vivants‘ Indie Tequila Roadshow. Luckily, I RSVP’d, arrived early and snagged a chair.

how bad is it to use the Paloma as a chaser?

We were greeted with a Paloma and for the most part, it was assumed that everyone has had tequila before and knew how it’s produced. This seminar was led by David Suro from Siembra Azul, Tomas Estes from Tequila Ocho, and Sophie Decobecq from Calle 23.

What we learned was how to properly taste tequila which I wasn’t surprised to learn was affected by the type of glass it’s presented in. I have always been fond of thinner glasses and although there is a special tequila tasting glass, it was recommended bars taste tequilas in whatever glassware they had to find the one that most suited. They most likely would do just fine in brandy snifters and champagne flutes. The Bon Vivants tried to gather enough glassware but some got by with random glasses. They were eventually switched out and tasters could see a difference.

Bon Vivants with David Suro, Tomas Estes and Sophie Decobecq

 

First we began by standing and depending on which hand was dominant, started smelling the tequila from looking at the ground, waist level and looking skywards. Then we switched sides and there was a noticeable difference. From the six different positions, I preferred smelling the tequila from the right (my dominant side), waist level. I found it very faint on the left side. It was explained our right brain tends to be analytical and our left is our emotional side. If you want to properly analyze the properties, look at something from the right. For instance, when you get the check at a restaurant, do you cock your head to the right when trying to figure it out? This is what it’s like.

there were 8 tequilas to taste

the tequilas we tasted

It was pretty interesting to taste with a room of professionals. I generally went with if I liked it or not. I wasn’t into the more dry ones, the ones that tasted faintly artificial or was too “rough.” I liked the last three because they were aged. This I already knew because as a bourbon drinker, I know some aged tequilas age in used whiskey barrels.

Other tasters threw out pepper, chocolate, spice, meat, bitter, waxy, grassy among variations of “sweet” flavors like caramelized and melted sugar.

David Suro, Tomas Estes, Sophie Decobecq

Our professionals remarked upon how high of a proof they liked their tequilas. I was surprised by Sophie’s answer of around 48 proof. Someone asked why were European spirits 38% or under and the answer had to do with taste but I’m fairly certain it’s taxes. The higher the proof, the higher the tax on imported spirits.

Then there was some joking about how tequila drinkers are frankly, sexual. And if you went on a date with someone who ordered white wine, yawn.

Then we got more serious and talked about the magnificent agave. As more and more Mexicans leave their country to find work, it’s harder to find proud agave workers and there’s been abuse in the industry. I have always been turned off by mixtos, preferring the pure agave tequilas. Someone asked how come there couldn’t just be a tequila (or agave spirit) that is mixed. It’s difficult. You certainly wouldn’t be able to call it tequila.

pork and chicken tamales

 

We wrapped up with Portland’s tamale lady bringing around chicken, pork and vegetarian tamales. It was a good snack after tasting 8 tequilas!

 

Portland Cocktail Week

Bon Vivants

Siembra Azul Tequila blog post about Indie Tequila Road Show

Nov15

Portland Cocktail Week: The Lost Art of Technical Free Pouring

Posted on by
Standard

The Lost Art of Technical Free Pouring

I stopped a few moments at Portland Cocktail Week to check out the Lost Art of the Technical Free Pouring with industry veteran Tobin Ellis. Billed as a seminar no bartender or bar owner should miss, it was to teach pouring mechanics that would lead to making cocktails twice as fast with twice the profitability.

With enough practice, free pouring comes within 1/8 of an ounce every time or so claimed Tobin. Here are a couple of vids.

This video showed how to pour with less spilling.

Tobin also demonstrated classic cuts such as this one he named the Faucet cut. He asked the bartenders to “follow through” with the pour which smoothly stops the pour so you don’t spill. It’s like turning off the faucet.

I thought his seminar was very interesting considering how I’ve gotten so many bad, unbalanced drinks leading to my love of jiggering and measured pours. But then I think about all the times I’m impatient for a drink and I’m sure the bartender is also impatient to bang out a ton of drinks without affecting the taste of the cocktails. This leads to learning how to free pour with accuracy.

I know there’s counting involved (and truth be told, I free pour when I  make my own drinks). This article is great. I have always known that an ounce is about a 4-count. You can then go from there and think about how it’s about a second for every 1/4 ounce. By this reasoning, it’d be 2-count for 1/2 oz, 4-count for 1 oz and 6-count for 1.5 oz.

I’ve now watched enough cocktail competitions to appreciate when free pouring has its place. If you’re going for speed, free pouring is the way to go. You just have to practice, practice and practice some more to be accurate.

Portland Cocktail Week

Barmagic with Tobin Ellis

Nov14

Portland Cocktail Week: Exploring the Martini with Tony Conigliaro

Posted on by
Standard

Tony Conigliaro

 

One of the Portland Cocktail Week seminars I attended was Exploring the Martini with Tony Conigliaro. I was excited to learn more about the history of the martini and to hear Tony speak. I have been to his bar 69 Colebrook Row in London. He is famed for coming up with bottle-aged cocktails (which then in turn inspired Portland bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler to age his cocktails in wood barrels).

Tony with Erick Castro

The discussion was moderated by Plymouth and Beefeater gin ambassador Erick Castro.

martinis with different vermouths

 

Tony answered questions that had been submitted previously. Someone asked about why when drinks got warm, it tended to taste sweet. He had a technical answer for that considering he is well known as a sensory man. Basically, the taste buds that taste sweet are activated more when the substance is warm. Tony gave the example of why warm ice cream tends to taste sweeter. See this explanation.

The two martinis I tried were almost too sweet for me. The one with the slightly more golden hue was definitely on the sweet side.

stick that rock in your mouth

 

Then Tony wanted us to taste rocks. Literally. I refused to. He mentioned how it was our fear of the unknown. Probably all true. Even when told the rock was washed and clean, I still was reluctant to pop it in my mouth. And no, it had nothing to do with minerality. That’s for wine tasting.

the all important twist

Someone asked about garnishes as we got another martini to taste. Tony mentioned less is more. Too long of a citrus peel could be distracting. No horse’s neck for Tony!

Overall, I thought it was a good talk but considering the laughter I heard on the other side for the Drinking is Fun talk with Rocky Yeh and Borys Saciuk, I wonder what I missed out on.  Drinking is fun, yes? But also educational and who knew, scientific?

 

Portland Cocktail Week

Nov14

Portland Cocktail Week: Yacht Rock with DonQ Rum

Posted on by
Standard

serving Don Q punch at Yacht Rock

 

The second night of Portland Cocktail Week was celebrated with a DonQ Rum party at Lola’s Room which is part of the Crystal Ballroom. The 80s Yacht Rock theme was helped along with a number of sailor hats and fairly soon nearly everyone had a white cap on their head.

the roving shark

A cowboy crab?

I loved the fun theme and the mascots of the party, a shark and crab. There was a make-shift photobooth and the music was provided by the party-goers as they sang karaoke with a live band.

Bartenders Allan and Danielle from Cana in Los Angeles

 

Libations came in the form of Dark & Stormys, rum punch, daiquiris and my fave- DonQ Anejo neat.

Ah, she’s a champagne bottle that popped its cork!

Of course one of my favorite things is burlesque. I happen to love all things that involve music and dancing. Denver bartender and LUPEC member Vivienne VaVoom entertained us with another great burlesque number. Loved those giant feathery fans.

Vivenne VaVoom

 

Links!

Portland Cocktail Week

DonQ Rum

Vivienne VaVoom

 

Nov11

Portland Cocktail Week: Robots vs Humans

Posted on by
Standard

one of the non-human "bartenders"

On Saturday, October 22, Portland Cocktail Week was the location of robots facing off with humans. Who would be the eventual master of us all?

Held at the Jupiter Hotel courtyard, the tented event featured many fine cocktails as well as nosh from a local food truck. I was most drawn to the locally  made spirits, House Spirits in Portland came up with four cocktails.

Short Circuit #2 – Aviation gin, Cointreau, Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur, lemon

Major Tom Collins (Coming Home) – Aviation gin, lime, simple syrup, soda

Astro Zombie- House Spirits White Dog whiskey, BG Reynolds Don’s mix, lime, simple syrup, Angostura bitters

33rd Solid State – Krogstad Aquavit, Imbue bittersweet Oregon vermouth, grapefruit juice

Major Tom Collins

Astro Zombie

I tried two of the House Spirits cocktails and my favorite was the Astro Zombie.

behold, your future bartender. No, not the people...the tubey thing

The party featured three “robot” bartenders including Cosmobot, which was shaped like a rocket ship and one that was just a bunch of tubes. I talked with guests and each firmly believed no one can beat a human on knowing what you really wanted but then conceded a machine would be more likely to measure properly all the time. Still, can they get along without human throats to drink their concoctions?

There was a competition to decide. Three human bartenders including Mathias Simonis from Milwaukee, Wisconsin who just won the Triple Buck competition/reckoning thrown by the Bon Vivants earlier in the day, Russell Davis from Rickhouse in San Francisco and master bartender Jim Romdall from Seattle all faced off against the robot Chassis.

Judges decided they liked Mathias and Russell but not over Chassis. So “it” came in first place. What?

Russell Davis- The Big Red Button (frozen Sazarac cookie) - photo courtesy of R. Davis

No way, I disagree with the judges. I had a taste of Russell Davis’ frozen cocktail, The Big Red Button, and he should have won! Ah well, he’s still a hot bartender that’s something robots can’t replace…yet.

Russell said he filled his shaker with hot water, dug into dry ice to create a cookie shaped mold. Then he poured a cognac Sazarac diluted with water into the mold. This froze it into a popsicle that was popped out after 2-1/2 minutes. He stenciled “Don’t Panic” onto the cocktail cookie with homemade cognac lemon cream.

Don’t panic. And the answer is 42.

Portland Cocktail Week

Nov10

Imbibe Magazine 5th Anniversary Party

Posted on by
Standard

Imbibe Magazine 5th Anniversary Party

 

The Cocktail GoGo bar crawl tour actually ended at the Imbibe Magazine party but because I wanted to change, I didn’t board the double decker bus and made my own way to the party at Spirit of ’77. Hence, it was well under way when I got there. We were handed programs and I counted 10 cocktails to try. Let’s recap the day so far-

and then after this party I was supposed to go to the Maker’s Mark party at Ground Kontrol? On top of a week that included going to 13 bars in Seattle (plus two tastings) and a heady week of seminars and parties for Portland Cocktail Week.

I

AM

IN

TROUBLE

Not actually. I wasn’t sick all week and damn well wasn’t going to be the last day.

Spirit of '77

Erick Castro

First we stopped by the main bar where Plymouth & Beefeater Gin Ambassador Erick Castro was making the Oceanside cocktail (Beefeater 24 gin, fresh lime, simple syrup, mint leaves, sea salt, celery bitters). I will drink anything made by this man.

Chris Patino

 

Upstairs in the Lil Spirit (Mezzanine bar), Pernod Ricard Ambassador Chris Patino was mixing up Two-Blossom Collins (absolut vodka, Creme Yvette, lavender syrup, fresh lemon, soda). Pernod Ricard owns Absolut.

Two Blossom Collins

 

I loved this though I thought I was past the vodka soda phase. This was much more intricate. Time to reconsider vodka.

Jeffrey Morgenthaler with Fish House Punch

 

It ain’t a party until there’s punch! Jeffrey Morgenthaler from Clyde Common was serving Fish House Punch (Bacardi 8 rum, Chateau Montifaud Petite Selection cognac, Briottet creme de peche, Laird’s applejack, fresh lemon, sugar, cold water)

Kimberly Patton-Bragg

 

I had seen New Orleans bartender Kimberly Patton-Bragg compete in Speed Rack earlier that day and was happy to try her Boulevardier (Four Roses Single Barrel bourbon, Campari, Carpano Antica).

Boulevardier

 

Stirred, strong and boozy, just the way I like it.

And then it was time to run off to the next party. What a hard life a food and beverage writer has.

 

Thanks Imbibe Magazine!

 

Nov10

Triple Buck with the Bon Vivants

Posted on by
Standard

Bon Vivants Present Triple Buck

Portland Cocktail Week brought a lot of great events including informative and educational seminars. And then there were the parties. I knew I wanted to check out the Triple Buck event at Davis Street Tavern put on by the Bon Vivants and then maybe catch a few seminars over at Leftbank Annex. But when push came to shove, I stayed the entire extraordinary 5 hours.

Trevor Easter of SF helping out at Triple Buck

The Bon Vivants showed off the Brown-Forman portfolio of 8 different whiskies including Woodford Reserve, Jack Daniel’s and Old Forrester. You could order any of them neat or on the rocks. They also featured one cocktail, Wild Buck (bourbon, smoked fig marmalade, lime, grated hazelnut, ginger beer, fig & thyme garnish) from Bar Lab.

downhome cooking

For a mere $5 donation, one got all the booze they wanted plus fantastic food. I heartily enjoyed the ribs and wondered how locavore-happy Portland managed to find watermelon in October.

Jacob Grier- balloon animal master?

Metrovino lead bartender Jacob Grier turned up with his balloons. Who knew this talented bartender-writer also made whimsical balloon sculptures? Here he is making me a flower. Aw.

Loved that they were also giving away hats for the event. Nearly everyone was sporting one by the end.

Julian Cox and Kristina Howald

One of the biggest surprises that day was welcoming LA bartender Julian Cox to the event. He and Christina decided at the last minute to come to Portland Cocktail Week.

The crowd watching the Triple Buck competition

There were two competitions that day. One was playing the Triple Buck machines brought in for the tournament. The winner got a $500 cash prize. That’s Rocky Yeh from Seattle with his birthday balloon hat.

Judges Willy Shine, Eric Alperin, Borys Saciuk, Tobin Ellis

The other competition, or the Reckoning, featured bartenders making two cocktails; an Old Fashioned and a blended drink. Judged by Willy Shine, Eric Alperin, Borys Saciuk and Tobin Ellis, bartenders also had to channel a spirit animal and do a little dance after their mixing.

Chris Bostick of the Varnish competing in the Reckoning

Chris Bostick from the Varnish in LA was the second to go and I wondered if judge Eric Alperin of the Varnish would play favorites. But no favoritism was involved at all.

Jennifer Colliau and friend doing her spirit animal dance

I didn’t take any video of him nor did I catch the first bartender who competed but here are the rest:

Steve Schneider from Employees Only, NY

Jennifer Colliau from San Francisco

Rocky Yeh from Seattle

Josh (?)

“Pretty Ricky” Gomez from Teardrop, PDX

Allison aka “Fox_Zilla” from San Francisco

Rhachel Shaw from Rye, San Francisco

Dominic Venegas from New York (but made famous in SF)

“Uniquekwa”  (I have reason to believe this is not her real name)

Mathias Simonis from Wisconsin

Ivy Mix from LUPEC- NYC, New York

Reza Esmaili from San Francisco

Russell Davis from Rickhouse, San Francisco

Jim Romdall from Seattle

The winner, Mathias Simonis from Wisconsin

I really wondered how Steve from Employees Only could bartend in a mask. Rocky probably embodied his spirit animal the most from muddling with a rib bone to his dance and then Jim’s audacity to tie up his shirt. Just watch the videos and then tell me how many times you’ve kicked yourself for not attending yourself.

I seriously though Russell Davis would take home the top prize just for best presentation of his cocktail. Loved that he stayed calm while a judge poured bitters on his hand as he was carving a small pumpkin as his drink’s vessel. His dancing on the bar was nearly as good as Mathias Simonis’ Eye of the Tiger song and dance. His spirit animal was the tiger, of course. If anyone has video of that dance, Mathias would love to see it.

one of the blended cocktails

This was one of the most rowdy cocktail competitions I’ve ever attended. It was an industry event for the industry yet it didn’t feel closed-off. A gentleman wandered in off the street and said it was the best time he’s had in a long while. The band kept the party mood going and I was loathe to leave but I had to get back to the hotel to get ready for the next party. And then the next one. And so on.

Links!

The Bon Vivants

Bar Lab

Brown-Forman

Portland Cocktail Week